Tropea
is one of the most beautiful towns in Calabria comes into view in the south of
the Tyrrhenian coast.
Austere and majestic, Tropea rises out of the promontory of Monte Poro which
lies between the two gulfs of Sant'Eufemia and Gioa.
Tropea overlooks a mirror of sky-blue, crystal-clear sea, with its incredible
rocks:
La Pizzuta, Formicoli, San Leonardo and Isola Bella, the Tropea symbol.
The Tropea wild, white,
sandy beaches which snake their way into little
grottoes and creeks are interrupted by
valleys and fertile, rippling hills full of
fruit and citrus fruit trees, onion and
vegetable fields, bougainvillaea, verbenas, lime
trees, jasmine and other sweet-smelling
Mediterranean plants.
In Tropea apart from the limpid, unpolluted sea,
Tropea itself offers a fascinating historical
and artistic profile, thanks to its patrician
houses with their impressive entrances adorned
by capitals with frescoes by important artists
and to the numerous, ancient churches rich in
sacred images recalling singular legends.
To
say that a certain place has the most fortunate
history in Calabria may not be the greatest of
complements. And it is not as if this locale
escaped centuries of pirate invasions (on the
contrary, for it is on the sea), many different
rulers from throughout the Western world and
beyond, repeated earthquakes and the stagnation
of recent times. But while the decline of "recent
times" in the rest of Calabria may by traced
back to the fall of the Swabians (late 1200s),
the noble town of Tropea, stunningly built on
cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, enjoyed a
relatively high level of freedom and prosperity
until much later (1800s).
Why should they have been so lucky? The reason
is perhaps quite a simple one: Tropea residents
managed to back the right boat in every battle
for the region. Beginning with the Normans (11th
century), Tropea
demonstrated particular loyalty to each ruling
house, and as a reward obtained special trade
and other privileges.
The town took a big gamble when backing the
Aragonese, who came to power in 1442 during a
rather turbulent period in Calabrian politics.
At one point during the power struggle Tropea
may have been the only remaining Aragonese
supporter (as recorded on the town's coat of
arms: sola Tropea sub fidelitate remansit:
only Tropea remains faithful), but in the end
the Spaniards were victorious.
The victors rewarded their greatest ally with
many additional privileges. While the rest of
Calabria was to sink into a feudal quagmire from
which it has only recently emerged, Tropea was
to remain a direct demesne of the Aragonese (and
later Bourbon) princes. This meant that the town
was ruled directly by the princes, without any
intermediary feudal lords who tended to severely
limit their subjects' freedom.
Tropea received other rights aiding its commerce,
and was even granted land of its own, which
included some 24 surrounding hamlets.

With all of these advantages the town became a
very wealthy commercial center, attracting many
merchants and noble families, evidence of whom
is still visible in the town's remaining
palazzi.
Only with the
arrival of the French in the early 19th century
did Tropea's trade, territorial and other
freedoms come to an end (ironically, with the
arrival of the "liberator" Napolean and his crew).
From then on Tropea joined the rest of southern
Italy in its unhappy modern history.
Natural and economic disasters notwithstanding,
one of the gravest blows was the exodus of huge
numbers of its native sons to other parts of
Europe and beyond. Unfortunately this sad
phenomenon continues to the present day, as
people (particularly youth) will continue to
move to where there is the opportunity for work
and advancement.
Calabria seems to have been among the slowest to
develop of southern regions since Italian
unification.
In terms of tourism development it is still well
behind that of regions like Sicily. However
there is hope, particularly with those of the
younger generations who are not escaping to
pursue more profitable work in the Italian North
or elsewhere.

In Tropea, it should be noted, tourism has made
a particularly strong impact in recent decades,
perhaps more than any other place in Calabria.
Again, this may be luck of the draw: Tropea is
blessed with some of the most magnificent
seacoast in Calabria. Or perhaps it's tied to
their history of always backing the right horse.
Tropea is perhaps
the most famous destination in all of Calabria.
It is charming, rich with artistic treasures,
from noble palaces to antique churches such as
the scenic Santa Maria dell'Isola.
For protection from Saracen raids Tropea was
rebuilt in the 13th century in its present
position, dramatically perched high above the
sea on calcareous rocks. Repeated earthquakes
over the centuries caused significant damage to
the town, whose residents after each disaster
would rebuild directly upon that which came
before (19th century archaeological excavations
brought this to light). After a particularly
rough earthquake of 1783 the government in
Naples sent over engineer Ermenegildo Sintes to
revise the town's urban plan. He cleared away
several of the cluttered building areas in town
in order to make easier escape routes during
periods of seismic activity, and he decided to
reduce the highest towers to safer levels.
Despite Sentis' "opening"
of town, some of the original narrow lanes have
remained and thus strolling through town today
is still quite thrilling.
There are many lovely restaurants and hotels (also
in the surrounding area), intimate cafés and
boutiques where one can purchase fresh local
food and craft products. At many points along
the periphery the lanes open up to marvelous
views of the sea, precipitously below town; one
can spy men on their lunch break out fishing, or
fishermen on their lunch break relaxing on shore.
In the summer, there is a great influx to area
beaches, which are beautiful, white sand beaches
often set beneath crags.
Near Tropea the beaches of San Domenica are
lovely, the coast quite spectacular in places.
One should also explore the maritime hamlets
closer to the tip of Capo Vaticano, such as the
characteristic marina of Santa Maria, which has
a direct view of cape massif as well as
excellent beaches.
Perhaps the most
extraordinary time to be in Tropea and Capo
Vaticano is during sunset. On a clear day one
can see all the way to Sicily and the Aeolian
Islands, and on the 12th of August the sun sets
precisely in the crater of great Stromboli, on
the 23rd of September behind Panarea, one of the
most beautiful of the Aeolian.
Few things could compare to these islands, not
to mention giant Mt. Etna, illuminated by the
last pink rays of the setting sun.
From Tropea there are regular ferry services to
Sicily and the Aeolian Islands during the summer.
From Pizzo in the north to Nicotera in the south
the Capo Vaticano region, part of which for
centuries was integral to the ancient Tropea
domain, the region offers much to explorers and
beach loungers alike. While in the summer the
area is swarming with visitors, it is still
possible to escape the crowd, to find a little
cove of one's own at sunset or easier still a
private mountain lookout.
The turquoise sea is difficult to move away from
here, particularly on a typically hot Calabrian
summer day.